Category: Red

We tasted: Cantina di Montalcino Brunello di Montalcino, M&S

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “I start our final tasting week with a mix of relief and a tinge of sadness. If I’m honest, we took on a bigger project than I imagined.

Finding, tasting and writing about one wine a week was more demanding than I thought. Not to mention, I didn’t realise Andy would be quite the taskmaster. Apparently my grammar is pretty poor, and he’s been doing a heavy red pen edit on it each week!

But at the same time, it has been a fun project to share and I do now understand what Andy does and doesn’t like a lot better which was the fundamental thing I was trying to achieve. The feedback we have received from you all has also been great and is a real motivator for us to carry on into 2019.

Sangiovese wasn’t the obvious choice as a final grape but I’m now really pleased. Just pouring this glass of wine I knew it was going to be a total “old skool” classic. It has that brown red hue of an aged classic wine, and the aroma that springs from the glass is full of that complex savoury charm; balsamic, leathery and smoky with brooding cherry fruits underlying. All these layers of character come through as the wine changes and reacts with age, and this to me is what make this wine so interesting. To taste it had that certain rusticity that can make Sangiovese so distinct, a chalky texture to the tannins, and acidity really bursting in the mouth. What made this wine sit above the average Sangiovese (as Brunello should) was the decent weight of dark cherry and plums working alongside that tannin and an array of flavours, from dried herbs, to orange peel, cinnamon and an earthy clay note. All working in balance so they don’t fight with each other.

I’m glad we traded up to Brunello. Chianti is often overlooked as a simple pizza restaurant wine, but it can be so interesting when made in the right hands.”

Andy says: “The final week, and unfortunately I have my first/last cold of the year, and I can’t taste a thing.

Or, maybe this wine is just fairly insipid. The first thing I noticed was the high acidity, and I think this is the third wine this year that has made me do the ‘sour shudder’, although perhaps it needs to be rebranded as the ‘acid attack’. The only thing I can agree with from Emma’s notes is the brown/red hue. I’m going to have to re-taste in a day or so when my head clears up.”

Buying Guide

Sangiovese is the grape behind Tuscan wines, especially Chianti. It has a light colour and flavour but a distinct tea leaf textured tannin which gives it a unique character. The best Sangiovese tends to be in the Chianti Classico hillside areas. We will be looking for one form a great producer to end our 52 weeks on a high note.

We tasted: Thymiopoulos Xinomavro, M&S

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “Coming soon!”

Andy says: “Another one to look forward to, given that I think I like big bold reds.

Week 14’s Nebbiolo didn’t quite do it for me, so will Xinomavro? It reminded me more of week 10’s Corvina, as I thought it was quite sweet and raisined. Emma is yet to write her notes so I’m interested to see if she agrees. Very drinkable with bold tannin and a purple colour that for me also had a tinge of brown. I’m not sure I could have more than a couple of glasses as I am finding it to be very sweet.”

Buying Guide

Xinomavro is the king of Greek red grapes. It is a giant of a grape variety in the fact it has thick skins and double pips. That means it has a lot of tannin and structure making it a bold red. Many people compare it to Nebbiolo for its bright fruit aroma along with distinct smoky characters, plus its ability to age well. The best region is Naoussa in the North of Greece but if you can find any Xinomavro that will do.

We tasted: Saumur Cabernet Franc, Nicolas, £9

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “This week we are on to the lesser known but classic wine style that is 100% Cabernet Franc, originating from the Loire region in France. I found a Saumur in our trusty local Nicolas wine shop, a great place for searching out random regional French wines.

I’m interested to see how this one goes down with Andy, I suspect he would be more a fan of the Argentine Cabernet Francs I’ve tasted in recent years that have the generous rich fruit profile more similar to their Malbecs.

As for the French version it couldn’t be much further up the opposite end of the spectrum from the juicy fruited new world Cab Francs. At work I’m known to be a bit of a lover of “leaf” which means I can handle and even appreciate my red wines when they have some green or even vegetal flavours; probably thanks to drinking all my Dad’s Bordeaux as a kid. This means I have potential to love a pungently herbaceous red like a Loire Cabernet Franc. Whilst others may hate it.

As a grape Cabernet Franc produces bunches with lots of small thick-skinned berries which give it strong tannins and is why it is often used to muscle up a red blend; for example with Merlot in St Emilion. It’s also naturally high in acidity and has a lovely purple fruit perfume. The leafy notes can be accounted for because it has a naturally high level of “pyrazine” characters which create that herbaceous character particularly in cool climates. It is also proven to be a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon when partnered with Sauvignon Blanc, which explains why Cab Sauv also picks up those greener notes. This makes it a characterful grape which sometimes people think therefore is best to be blended so it becomes more approachable.

Onto the wine we tasted, I was really pleased it was a “classic”. Upfront I got a heavy waft of fresh cut green peppers, with a smoky dark edge along with crunchy black fruits, it really did explode from the glass. To taste it wasn’t too grippy and taught on the tannin which can be the case with this wine. The fruit flavours were ultra fresh, just like tasting black berries of the bush and there was an elegant mineral graphite bite to it. The herbaceous flavours did linger on the finish, but like I said, I’m actually in favour of a dose of that in reds provided it is in good balance to the fruit.”

Andy says: “The first thing to note about this wine was the burst of fruit when tasting, which after a second rapidly faded, figuratively falling of a cliff in your mouth, changing to a more earthy flavour.

I don’t think I’ve experienced such a rapid change in taste in any wine before. Colour wise it was a nice vibrant purple. I agree with Emma saying it’s not too grippy. Tasting again a few days later, the fruit has faded and the change in taste in the mouth doesn’t happen anymore, and there is a vanilla like after taste.”

Buying Guide

Cabernet Franc is a grape that is either used as a minor part in blends like in Bordeaux or as a grape alone. On its own it is most known in the Loire region, with wines like Saumur or Chinon. But it is also starting to travel well and there are now many countries in the world testing out Cabernet France with some great results such as Argentina or California. We will be staying true to its original homeland and looking for a Chinon.

We tasted: Beaujolais Nouveau 2018, Marks and Spencer, £8

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “I couldn’t help but smile when we opened the bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau. There is something about this type of wine that spells pure joy to me.

Plus it is a great for beginners to learn how to start describing wines. It is bursting with aroma and flavour that have lots of characters reminiscent of childhood. People often note a bubblegum character to the aroma and it also has a good burst of cherry fruit flavour, almost like cherry cola. Nouveau style wines are definitely not on the complex spectrum of the styles made from Gamay, but I would put them firmly in the crowd pleaser category.

We tasted Beaujolais Nouveau for our wine, Andy was cross with me all week when he realised I scheduled our tasting a week later than Beaujolais Nouveau day. My excuse is that we normally taste on a Tuesday or Wednesday and given the first legal day to drink it was Thursday then we’d be breaking the law in the name of 52 Grapes.

The 2018 vintage is being heralded as pretty special with lots of ripe juicy grapes due to the warm summer. And having tasted this wine on many good and bad years I can attest that this is a great year to be drinking it Nouveau. It is ripe succulent and tasty.

A few of you might want to know what Nouveau means. It is basically a wine where the grapes have just been picked, quickly made into wine and released just as soon as it is deemed ready to drink, about two months later. It also has a special method used on it called carbonic maceration that I described in our glossary of terms. Basically the tank of grapes is sealed shut rather than left open as it ferments, plus it contains whole rather than crushed grapes. This enables the grape to start to ferment inside its skin and gently explode as the pressure in the tank rises from the growing carbon dioxide gas. This process extracts a very soft form of tannin from the grape which is why it is so delicate and also builds all the vibrant cherry-ade aroma and flavour. The reason it is mean to be drunk young is that those characters fade quickly and then the wine becomes dull. So drink up – this wine isn’t one for the cellar.”

Andy says: “I remember quite liking Beaujolais Nouveau last year, so was quite looking forward to this week. I wasn’t disappointed.

The aroma hit me like a (very small) train. ‘I know that smell! It’s, umm, oh damn what is it?’. I just couldn’t think oh what the very distinctive smell was, but eventually it came to me. It was the cough sweets, Cherry Tunes, complete with a hint of menthol, too. I was always a big fan of those, so instantly liked the wine.

Taste wise, there wasn’t much for me. Emma notes a cherry cola taste, but she doesn’t drink Coke, so I think she’s lying. I however do, and didn’t get that at all. Tannin wise, there was next to nothing. This is a very easy drinking red wine, and I think you should try it.”

Buying Guide

Gamay is the grape that makes the more famous wine Beaujolais, which comes from the Burgundy region of France. We are trying it just after Beaujolais Nouveau week. That is the first week that the latest vintage of wine is legally allowed to be sold. The wine only finished fermenting a few weeks before. Gamay perfectly suits that because it is fruity and upfront making it a pleasure to drink young. We will be seeking out a “Nouveau” but may try one of the posher villages like Fleurie or Morgon that are also made from this grape and have a bit more age.

We tasted: Filia de Grand Mayne, M&S, £23

Emma says: “And the big judgement commences. For once we have managed to strike gold and have a lovely bottle of St Emilion Grand Cru at home; a welcome break from scouring the shops for our weekly grape.”

It is also a rare thing, it is Andy’s wine. Normally wine collecting is my thing and he sticks firmly to hoarding a veritable mountain of spirits.

The wine we have is a “second wine” which is a relatively new thing in Bordeaux. It means a well known Chateau has selected out its best fruit for its top wine which you pay top dollar for. Then it produces a second wine with the fruit that don’t quite make its first selection. Normally you get great value for money from these wines since they have the first class winemaking of the top wine but cost a fraction of the price. And as Bordeaux Chateau prices have risen over recent decades many people have resorted to buying these second wines that don’t break your bank balance quite as seriously. Mind you they still all cost over £20 a bottle so either way they fall into my “special” wine territory.

Wines of the right bank are typically a bit more easy going than the Medoc (left bank) wines that are Cabernet dominant. The merlot fruit being dominant in the blend you can find that there is a rich berry fruit nose and supple easy going palate. Typically these wines are blended with a little Cabernet Franc to add a structural element plus a nice herbaceous character.

Our wine is from 2011 which means it has a decent bit of age. And I was pleased to find it really came through on the aroma. It has a lovely soft shoe leather character, along with tobacco and a sweet fragrant plummy character typical of Merlot. The vintage was quite cool and not one of the best but pleasingly this has given it a sweet herbal tinge in a pleasant way. To taste it was supple and silky in texture, in fact it felt beautifully smooth. It opened out in layers of flavour that started with cassis and plum fruit and developed to sweet licquorice, coffee bean, clove and that earthy mocha that comes with age. I’m so pleased that we got a wine that really shows that Merlot can be complex, it isn’t as structured as a Cabernet but that gives it an elegance and finesse that definitely elevates above an average wine.

Andy says: “I find it much easier to describe wines that are full of big, bold flavours. ‘It smells like an old, muddy boot, and tastes like the inside of the finest cherry pie you ever had.’

This wine though, is soft, delicate and refined. I don’t have the palate nor the food tasting experience to discern anything helpful. If pushed, I would say dark fruits, like cherry. On the nose there is a soft leather aroma, and the tannins are soft and supple, giving a light grip that lessens with a long finish.

I suspect this wine is much better than I am able to tell.”

Buying Guide

Poor Merlot got a bad reputation after the iconic wine film “Sideways” put it down. It is a soft fleshy grape which means it can make simple wines without massive structure. But you can’t forget that some of the most expensive wines in the world in Bordeaux (St Emlion/Pomerol) are made mostly from this grape. So this week we are heading right to its heartland of Bordeaux to seek out one of those and see if we can put it to the test.

We tasted: Pisano Tannat, M&S, £10

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “Today kicked off with a full morning of judging Albarino wines from Spain and Portugal. Then into an afternoon of mulling over Beaujolais samples. Finished off by approving a few Champagne blends. Yes, this is the type of day all my friends tell me is my job. However the honest truth right now, is that I spend a disproportionately higher time updating spreadsheets.

If you are jealous thinking of how I’ve spent today then I can tell you by 11am my teeth were starting to sharpen with the gradual build up of Albarino acidity. By lunch time my senses were so confused I couldn’t decide if I was hungry and felt a little giddy. I promise you that even the most hardened wine taster finds a day of tasting a bit of a mountain to climb. The traditional way to refresh the senses is a cold beer or G&T. Sadly they aren’t included in 52 Grapes so I had to settle for a big bold red in the form of Tannat.

Tannat is a grape I have tasted most from its adopted country of Uruguay. I visited three years ago and fell in love with the country which has beautiful pasture land scenery and coastal sweeps of sparkling sand. The landscape is far more lush than the desert scape of Mendoza which brings to the wines a fresher lighter style. Its winemaking history is as long as Argentina but it hasn’t become quite as famous. And like Argentina the original birthplace of its famous grape is France; but for Tannat it is the region of Madiran. I met and tasted a large array of producers there but one of my favourites was the Pisano family whose wine we are tasting tonight. The large family of Italian brothers showed us around their winery which has a wonderful rustic charm, including tasting cellar filled with empty bottles of wines from around the world the brothers have consumed together. They are so passionate about their wine I regularly get an email to check in to see how they are doing and offer help even though they are the other side of the world. And I have really felt you can taste that passion in their wine.

They had a challenge with me tonight, my senses were tired and a big heavy red is not the natural cure for that. But I was pleased to see it had that charm I expected. The fruit is dark and brooding at first but starts to open out to fragrant red berry fruit. There is a decent note of milk chocolate on the aroma and taste which comes from a tasty hit of oak but the luscious plum and cherry fruit soak it up well. This is a full bodied red with rich tannin but the skill of their winemaking shows through in how smooth it feels, leaving the fruit tasting succulent without any raw grip on the finish. The moderating influence of rain in this country has also left a freshness that comes through as a menthol twist at the end. There is also a savoury edge to Tannat which I like and sets it apart from Malbec but I think this is a wine that would have definite appeal to people who are stuck drinking that wine and looking for a new adventure.

PS other producers to look out for in Uruguay are: Bouza, Garzon, Juanico, Pizzorno.”

Andy says: “Having researched this grape for the newsletter, I was looking forward to checking that the tannins in a Uruguayan version are soft.

I’m happy to confirm that they are – and I’d opt for ‘velvetty’, from my secret tannin descriptor site. After opening and smelling, I was a little hesitant as the wine smelt a bit farmyardy and possibly a touch closed, and the first taste wasn’t that great. But, as has often happened in the last few months, after a few minutes in the glass it greatly improved.

But, it didn’t improve enough to blow me away. I’ve learnt over the year that I like smokey, silky, reds like Rioja. So whilst I will have no trouble finishing the bottle, and to be honest I’ll have not trouble drinking more in the future, it won’t be at the top of my list.”

Buying Guide

Tannat is a kindred spirits of Malbec given it heralds from France (in Madiran region) but has travelled to South American and found its true home in Uruguay. If you can find a version from France or Urguauy it will be good enough. However we are going to try a Urugyuan version to taste it in its newest form.

Tasting Notes

We tasted: Houdamond Pinotage, £13, M&S

Emma says: I entered this week’s grape tasting with a determination to keep an open mind. Often people ask me what my favourite grape or wine is, few ask if there is a grape that I really can’t stand. I’m afraid to say that previous experience has told me that Pinotage is the only one. However the lovely people I work with who (some feel the same way) have told me that Houdamond Pinotage will be the wine to convert me. So here we go…

The reason I’m not a great fan of this wine is likely to be that I’m super sensitive to an aroma and flavour that is quite often found in South African wines. Some call it burnt rubber but I find it a bit of a dungy stink and ashy taste. If you don’t detect the same in your tasting then feel lucky, each of us have differing sensory perceptions and can be sensitive to certain things. It seems I’m particularly alert to these characters.

Onto the wine in question. The first aroma was a dark, brooding prune with a molasses richness which was quite attractive, it was followed by a bit of boot polish which I don’t mind and then that very distinct earthy dung note, but not too bad. So a good start. To taste it was nicely supple, with fluid tannins and a blueberry , plum flavour with that caramel sweetness and a strong coffee note. But then after about a second or two I felt that earthy, burnt rubber and bitter character, plus a raw alcohol burn start to emerge and that was it for me.  I struggled to finish the glass which Andy can attest is a very rare thing.

Sorry South Africa since I know this is your trademark grape. I hope Andy feels differently.”

Andy says: “I didn’t have too much time to taste this wine as I was busy fighting with a blocked dishwasher drain. It won, but there will be a return battle tonight, when I will be armed with a drain snake.

I actually don’t mind it and don’t detect the rubber that Emma does. The first thing I did say was that there was quite a rough alcohol burn. To describe that further, it’s that harsh feeling you can get from a really cheap whiskey, compared to a more expensive one which will be smoother.

Taste wise, I’m still not getting all those fruits, but I did find it quite pleasant, almost blackcurrant-y, and quite easy to drink.”

Buying Guide

Pinotage is the red grape that has come to define South Africa. Its parents are a crossing between Pinot Noir and Cinsault but it really tastes nothing like either of those grapes. The search this week should be quite easy since most big shops stock a Pinotage if they have South African wines.

We tasted: Domodo Negroamaro 2017, Majestic, £9.99

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “Negroamaro is one of the lesser known reds of Italy. It comes from the Southern area of Apulia where it can get very hot so you have to expect a rich red, potentially with a bit of that raisin richness that comes from ultra ripeness. I’m not naturally a fan of big reds so I haven’t been expecting much this week. But I am hoping we get a real taste of these unique grapes that make Italy such an interesting country to explore for wine.

First the colour of my wine is ultra dark, almost opaque which often happens with warm climate reds because the anthocyanin that come from the skins accumulate a bit more with warm climate grapes. I can also see those strong tears that come onto the side of the glass, also a common feature with sugar ripe grapes made into wine.

The aroma matches my first impression, the fruit is rich and baked, lots of prunes, raisins and liquorice notes. To taste it is fleshy, with that ripe fruit profile, mixed with molasses and mediterranean herbs like oregano and tarragon. There is a fair bit of tannin giving it a grip that is typical of Italian reds, but it is also quite quaffable because the alcohol is surprisingly low at 12%.

I’m not quite sure how they managed that with all these ripe fruit flavours, I suspect some winemaker wizardry has gone on. I don’t think this is going to be the Negroamaro that converts me but it was certainly inoffensive and I’d be happy to serve it to friends at a party.“

Andy says: “Fairly lame post from me this week, as once again I had very little time to actually taste this wine.

I don’t get any of the flavours Emma mentions, but she is quite a bit posher than me so we’ll put it down to that. As she said, it is an inoffensive drinkable red, and something I’d expect to be given in an average Italian as a their house wine.

Hopefully I’ll get to taste it again and add some more to this.”

Buying Guide

Negroamaro is a black grape from the south of Italy, especially the region Puglia and Salento. We will be looking for a 100% grape blend from these areas. Some large supermarkets do stock this grape but you may need to look in specialist stores.

We tasted: Chateau Blaignan Medoc 2012 £14.50-9.67 on save 1/3 now

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “This week Andy really held me back. I was ready to crack open a fine bottle of Bordeaux for our Cabernet experience. One of those really pricey bottles that I’ve saved for a “special” occasion. Since I never seem to find a grand enough moment to fit opening one, I thought 52 grapes might fit the bill. But no, Andy was my kill joy, he said we needed to find something similar to what other readers might be drinking. Do I sound bitter?

So I didn’t open this bottle with a lot of relish. However I’m really happy to say that opening it was a nice reminder that everyday Bordeaux can be a joy. A lot of wine trade people dismiss ordinary Bordeaux as being lean and green tasting. That is because the Cabernet grapes in the moderate climate of Bordeaux can struggle to ripen and if they don’t the flavours can become bitter and leafy, plus the tannin in the grapes can also be unripe and rough. Potentially I’m just a bit immune to those flavours because my lovely dad who is the ripe old age of 91 has been drinking at least a half a bottle of Berry Bros Extra Ordinary Claret since I was born; which was a while ago. Consequently I’ve had a lot of experience with this grape!

Onto this wine which I happen to know really well because I import it for the company I work at. I’m so pleased that it really shows that definitive Bordeaux character in a good way. The aromas are heady and perfumed, with typical cassis and sweet menthol leaf, combining with leather and tobacco. Then on the taste it showed through a sense of classic minerality (pencil lead if you have ever tasted it) and fresh crunchy brambles mixing with a hint of padron grilled green peppers that defines to me the greenness that is good in Bordeaux. The tannins are a feature as you would expect in a boldly structured grape like Cabernet, they feel grippy and leave a texture on your teeth, probably a colour if I’d drank the whole bottle. Cabernet is also the grape that really encapsulates what “tertiary” characters are in wine. This term refers to the aromas and flavours that happen with age and when a wine moves away from primary characters such as fresh fruit and flowers. Cabernet has a lot of structure and acidity that soften out nicely with age and then these “other” characters evolve which also bring complexity for example: leather, tobacco, tar or pot pourri. This wine only has six years of age but ones that are much older will be become dominated by these tertiary characters more than the fruit.

On food matches do try a lump of cheese with this wine. The heavy tannin in  Cabernet reacts with protein and then they have this nice synergy where the wine softens the taste of the cheese and the protein then helps the tannins to soften so the wine is more approachable.

A final personal note is that I love Bordeaux because every time I have a sip I somehow feel closer to my Dad. I’m not sure he feels the same way or he’d be thinking about me a lot! But it is nice to have that personal connection with a wine.”

Andy says: “I was looking forward to this week as I’ve always thought I was a CabSav fan. I think I still am, but am coming to the annoying realisation that maybe not all wine is the same.

Buying Guide

Cabernet Sauvignon is the world famous red grape that makes wines with great structure and ageability. We are going to seek one out from the classic region of Bordeaux. Look for a “left bank” Bordeaux wine which can be identified by names like Medoc, Margaux, St Julien or Pauillac, these have the most Cabernet in the blend.

We tasted: De Martino Old Vines Cinsault, Itata, £11.99

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “I’ve been looking forward to this week because I knew exactly which wine I wanted us to taste. It is actually quite rate to find a 100% Cinsault wine but I have fortunately found my ultimate one when visiting a favourite Chilean producer De Martino three years ago.

This is a family business that has been making wine for generations but the younger clan headed up by Sebastian and winemaker brother Marco are now championing a return to old traditions. Sebastian is mad about buying up long forgotten plots of vines in overlooked regions like Itata and Maule where the vines are hundreds of years old. He took me on a memorable visit in tropical downpours where we drank this wine standing under a tin roof shivering. I remember thinking if the wine tasted that good in those conditions it had to be great. So let’s see if Andy agrees.

Given it’s still pretty warm in London right now we decided to chill our wine, which I also thought was fitting because it is quite a light bodied red which really suits being chilled. To the first smell it had that gorgeous scented dark cherry character with a hit of farmyard and smoky pencil lead, giving it a classic European charm. If I was tasting it blended I don’t think I’d ever think of Chile, but Itata is quite cold and wet which is why these wines can have a more restrained style. To taste it was just so light and elegant it sort of danced on the tongue, the tannin texture being really delicate. The fruit is slightly cassis but also with a mellow cherry flavour and a mild herbal freshness. The acidity feels nicely lifted but not sharp. To sum it up it really is a pretty wine.

Onto potential food matches, I would say this is a great red to go with food where a heavy red would dominate. The light tannins mean it would work really nicely with fish like salmon and could also work with curries. I think it would also be one to substitute for dishes that I would normally match with Pinot Noir, like mushrooms, game birds or white meats.”

Andy says: “My first sniff of this made me think of vinegar, which is never a good thing. But, the wine was fresh out of the fridge, and maybe it was a trick of the temperature as it soon blew off.

I also got a bit of leather sofa, which is a bona fide wine tasting thing to say. The first tasting was also disappointing, very thin, very light, not much to talk about at all. Downhearted, I logged in and started building this page, finding and cropping the images etc.

Some ten minutes had passed and the second taste was much different. It was full of character and full of black fruit flavours, blackberry, blackcurrant etc, even a bit Ribena-y. Lesson learned, don’t over chill your reds. This is a lovely summer drinking red.”

Buying guide

Cinsault is a red grape from France, it was often used in blends to bulk out a wine because it is high yielding. We are going to seek out a 100% Cinsault from old vines, typical countries that do this are France, South Africa or Chile. These are quite rare so we’d recommend buying any one you can find.